“Secure & Control” 2.

Greetings, this post is well overdue, a few weeks ago we got around to playing a 2000 points secure & control mission. Alpha Legion V Ultramarines. Nearly half of my list was obliterated by turn two, due to poor placement during deployment, unlucky dice rolls & just sheer bad luck. Unfortunately was tabled in turn four, so victory to the Ultramarines…

Key moment in the game for me was when the Ultramarines Redemptor went on a rampage flattening my Chaos Lord. Wish I’d taken a picture of that moment. Possibly one of the funniest moments of tabletop gaming this year… Also has given me a good idea for a little conversion project.

All good fun.

More posts soon as I’m currently working on objective markers, some more terrain and also a hybrid batch of 20 marines but I’ll go into that in another post.

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“Welcome to… Generic crags” [insert Jurassic Park theme]

You may have seen these lurking in the background of previous posts, thought I’d share my how to of building “generic crags” ideal for any tabletop game.

For the amount I’ve made to fit a 6X4 table you’ll need about three sheets of 1inch thick insulation foam. Got mine from B&Q for about £5.

Also need PVA. Poundland £1

Cheap acrilic paints or spray paint. Cost from as little as a £1 to £10 depending on what you use. You’ll need at least a black & grey. I’ve also used some wall paint tester pots I’ve had sitting around for a while. A mustard colour & brown. Look in B&M and Wilko. Can get for about £1 a pot, always worth having these laying about for terrain projects.

Big cheap paint brush & Stanley knives. Poundland £1 each.

Chuncky grit or sand, I tend to look on ebay or use children’s play sand. B&M about £3.

Anyway once you’ve raided B&Q, Poundland & B&M start by cutting wonkey oval & kidney bean shapes out of the insulation foam, you’ll want to stack these largest to smallest, its up to you how high, mine are about four to five stacks high. Just play around with them.

Once happy with the rough shape glue together with PVA.

Once dry you can spread PVA to the flat areas and sprinkle sand over.

Once dry paint rocks black all over.

Once dry, dry brush or lightly spray brown in random patchy areas.

Once dry, dry brush or lightly spray grey all over.

After this I’ve added a mustard colour, this is just a personal choice, but very very lightly I’ve dry brushed a few of the crags with this.

But thats basically it.

“Secure & control”

Quick overview from last weeks game. 2000 points Alpha Legion v Ultramarines. [[Future games I’ll include the lists of the day]]

The mission was secure & control (player with most victory points at the end of the game wins)

Ultramarines Turn 1•

Fireraptor blasted off the map (First blood) by mass fire from Primaris Hellblasters. Also Hellblasters sit on objective. Intersecessor squads advance toward nearest objectives.

Alpha Legion Turn 1•

Primaris Replusor destroyed by combined fire from Havoc squads. Chaos space marine (CSM) units advance to nearest objectives. Significant wounds made on Redemptor Dreadnought.

Ultramarines Turn 2•

Reivers & Inceptors drop on mid and left flank of Alpha Legion deployment zone, significant losses to one unit of Havocs & a CSM unit. Intersecessor squads sit on objectives.

Alpha Legion Turn 2•

All Reivers cleared by combination of CSM, Contemptor Dreadnoughts & Warlord, most Inceptors destroyed by mass fire from CSM & Havoc squad.

Ultramarines Turn 3•

One squad of Intersecessors advances onto middle objective, also Redemptor advances toward middle of map. Minor damage to Alpha Legion as Intersecessors sit on objectives.

Alpha Legion Turn 3•

Contemptor Dreadnoughts advance to middle of map, one fails to charge, other punches Redempor Dreadnought in half, then continues to move out of cover into Hellblaster firing line.

CSM unit on right flank advances towards enemy held objective.

Middle CSM unit & Warlord advance to middle objective, whilst Havocs hold rear objectives.

Ultramarines Turn 4•

Nearest Contemptor Dreadnought destroyed by Hellblasters, second destroyed by Primais Lieutenant & Intersecessors.

Right flank Intersecessors shoot at nearest CSM unit.

Middle Intersecessors sitting on objective shoot into CSM unit.

Alpha Legion Turn 4•

Middle of table objecive being held by Ultramarines is charged by reminent of CSM unit & Warlord. Now held.

Right flank in cqb for objective. [Contested]

Rear objective still held by Havocs.

We both agreed to call time as it was getting quite late in the day, and families to see.

Ultramarines held two objectives (6 points) & scored first blood (1 point)

Alpha Legion held three objectives (9 points)

final scores 9 – 7 to Alpha Legion.

“I am Alpharius” part 7.

Just a small follow up post on the end result of the fire raptor. The kit is now finished, but I’m now waiting on a pair of twin lascannons via eBay. Should be here this week. I’ll probably post how & where they will be magnetised.

Regretfully I had to spray the flight stand black as it suffered the dreaded super glue frosting.

The paint job is the same method used for my marines, if interested see my “Codex Hydra” post, the only addition is I added a chipping effect to the paint job by sponging a little silver in random areas across the ship.

Also still not 100% on the base, as it seems to be lacking, but will do for now… Maybe I’ll add a ruin or something?

“First contact”

Just thought I’d share a few photos of our first game of 8th edition. Was good fun, but cut short as the time was getting on. The photos are not great, but you’ll notice some new terrain these are still a work in progress but were to a tabletop standard for all purposes of the training wheels game. I’ll be doing a step by step guide very soon.

“I am Alpharius.” Part 6.

I was going to do a step by step guide of “how to build a fireraptor gunship” but I’m not now, the rumours are true… These kits are a pig to build!

But I will give some words of advice…

•Make sure all parts are present, mine was missing a part, just call Forge world customer service, they will sort you out.

•Wash all resin parts, you’ll notice some parts feel greasy, this is release agent. Make sure it’s gone before painting otherwise you’ll find paint doesn’t take to areas.

•Dry fit parts a good few times before glueing in, just to be sure it all fits flush.

•Invest in greenstuff & or liquid greenstuff, I found that the kit wasn’t a perfect fit and had a few gaps, so be prepared to plug holes. Plenty of greenstuff tutorials on YouTube, I’m pretty sure Games Workshop even released a video.

•Expect warpage with parts, Forge World is notorious for this, it’s easily corrected. Some people heat parts with a hair dryer, I tried this and thought it was too slow. They way I prefer is boiling a kettle & pouring the water into a mug or tub. You can then dip the resin parts in & manipulate the parts back into shape. Be warned, do not leave in for too long otherwise parts can melt and loose detail.

•Invest in a Dremel or electric hobby drill, I found this invaluable for sanding down large areas more precisely & also drilling holes in areas I wanted to magnetise. These can cost as little as £10 up to over £100, I opted for a cheap drill via eBay it’s been wonderful.

•NEODYMIUM MAGNETS! I’ve magnetised the belly of the Fireraptor & top of flight stand with 20mm X 2mm magnets, as I found the cross slot on the model wasn’t very secure.I’ve also magnetised the ball turrets with 3mm X 2mm magnets in order to change weapon load outs. You can buy these relatively cheap via eBay.

[[IF YOU ARE USING NEODYMIUM MAGNETS BE SURE TO KEEP WELL AWAY FROM ANIMALS & CHILDREN AS CONSUMPTION COULD CAUSE DEATH]]

•Another tip is you can paint the cockpit window using Tamiya Mini Acrylic range, just look for the ones that say “clear” I used colour X-25. Also beware do not glue your windows in as you’ll end up with a frosting effect.

Anyway I think this is all the major things I learnt whilst building this kit, it’s been an experience… If I can think of anything else I’ll amend this blog later on. If you have any problems or questions when building your fireraptor drop me a comment or email. I found when I was building the kit not much information was about. Also check out my Instagram as it has videos of the magnetised areas. I’ll post a more finalized version of the Fireraptor next week as I only had him tabletop ready for a game last weekend and since the game I’m now in the process of rebasing & adding details.

“I am Alpharius.” Part 5.

In this post I thought id share my current progress with the Legion, I’ve nearly painted up 2000 points, just the Fireraptor gunship to finish.

The photos below contain x2 Chaos Lords, x3 infantry squads, x3 havoc squads & x2 Hellforged Contemptor dreadnoughts.

“Codex Hydra”

I’ve been asked quite a lot how i painted my Alpha Legion, So thought I’d note it down on my blog, just incase anyone wanted to use my method (or incase i forget).

Step 1.) Spay models with mat black undercoat.

Step 2.) Army Painter Hydra Turquoise two thin coats.

Step 3.) Sharpie metallic silver pen on shoulder pad trim & bolters.

Step 4.) Army painter Dark Tone Ink wash all over.

Step 5.) Army Painter Hydra Turquoise dry brush all turquoise areas.

Step 6.) Army Painter Skeleton Bone very light dry brush on all turquoise areas.

Step 7.) Army Painter Blood Red for the eyes.

If looking at doing the same bases as I’ve done continue. If not then this is basically it.

Step 8.) PVA and gritty sand bases. ≤≤Optional after sand & pva is dry you can add a crackle paste medium, leave it on the bases a few hours best some place quite warm. It will add a cracked crust effect. Looks really cool.≥≥

Step 9.) Spray bases Army Painter Fur Brown.

Step 10.) Paint bases Army Painter Mars Red.

Step 11.) Wash bases in Army Painter Dark Tone Ink.

Step 12.) Dry brush bases in Army Painter Agrid Earth.

Step 13.) Fix models to bases & add decals.

Step 14.) Add Forge World Grey Ash weathering powder to top halves of models.

Step 15.) Add Forge World Orange Rust weathering powder to lower halves of models & bases.

Step 16.) Coat models in Army Painter Anti Shine Mat Varnish. Shake well before use & spray at distance otherwise you’ll have a whitesh mist to your models. (I also found the spray was useful for dissolving the plastic film from the decals and leaving the image imprint in place, so no need for micro sol & set!!!! Saves a few quid.)

Step 17.) Paint mat black trim on bases.

Step 18.) Paint gloss varnish on eye lenses.

Step 19.) <optional> use Scale 75 Adriatic Blue for edge highlighting. Something I’ve started on my HQ choices & will add to the infantry over time.

Thats it. Its quite a long process, but not hard or taxing.

“I am Alpharius.” Part 4.

These are my current Chaos Lords I delayed this blog due to the fact i wanted the one on the left finished before I presented it. He’s armed with my interpretation of the Blade of the Hydra.

He’s most definitely a kit bash from parts of the plastic MK3 power supply (backpack), plastic MK4 helmet, legs, arms, pistol holster & balteus. Forge World Alpha Legion shoulder pads & torso. Chain glaive and hands are also from Forge World Night Lords section.

Also on the right is my other Chaos Lord, who is simply the model from Forge World with a simple MK4 head swap & plasma pistol.

As you can see I’ve kept the two lords looking very similar to each other as well as the troops as this fits in with the Alpha Legion narrative. “I am Alpharius.”

“I am Alpharius.” Part 3.

Last weekend I started working on three havoc squads, one team of Las cannons & two squads of missile launchers. Oh and three Heavy Bolters, So far all built and mostly painted up, just need to base and add decals, as well as add weathering powders. Once these chaps had been primed i painted 27 models in one sitting, started at around 3.30 and finished just after midnight.

Up next my Chaos Lords works in progress…